Would you like to be able to quilt your own quilts if you had a long arm sewing machine? Have you tried to purchase a best sewing machines for quilting and embroidery but discovered that the cost is prohibitively high?

Should that be the case, check out this amazing quilting technique! Although it's referred to as "batting buddy," you may do the same task at home for nothing by not buying the pricey templates that quilt stores want you to acquire.

Sew every square of the quilt as though you were foundation piecing. The only thing that will alter is that instead of sewing each piece through the batting to the back of your quilt, you will be sewing straight to the back. Learn how by following these instructions.

Step 1:

To sew, pick a basic block form. Both diagonals and crazy quilt designs are effective. Remember that your patterns will have to be restricted to straight stitched lines (just as in a foundation pieced block).

Step 2:

Two square sizes one that is an inch (2.5 cm) larger all around than the other are required. The best part about this is that, if you'd like, you can use your standard cutting rulers to perform all of your cutting with a rotary cutter. The background fabric will be made from the huge squares.The larger square in this example had two inches (5cm) more length on each side than the smaller square, which was 7 inches (17.78cm) and 5 inches (12.7cm) square, respectively.

Step 3:

Place a batting square in the center of the bigger backing square, on the "wrong" side. The initial block pieces may now be added to the top.

• Lay the first block piece, face up, on the batting. To ensure precise alignment of neighboring blocks, create a cardboard template for the "starting point" and align it with your initial block.

• With the seam edges of the two block pieces aligned, place the second piece face down.

Step 4:

Stitch the seam closed. Like a big sandwich, sew it through both block pieces, the batting, and the backing.

Step 5:

Once the seam is open, push it open. Continue this process with the next block piece, aligning the edges, sewing the seam, and pressing it open until you reach the block's edges. Every seam should end at the batting's edge.

Note: A hot iron will compress poly batting, so be careful to press with a cold iron if you're using one. The ideal batting for this project is cotton.

Step 6:

Move the unquilted border part of the block sandwich beneath the block, which is an inch (2.5 cm) wide, out of the way. Cut off any fabric that extends over the edge of the batting. You may also use a ruler and your rotary cutter for this, if you're cautious.

Step 7:

Continue doing this on each of the four sides. One block has been created by you. After creating the remaining ones, begin to connect them as follows:

• Align the borders of the two blocks and place them backing side to backing side. Verify with a light touch that the batting edges are aligned.
• The inch (2.5 cm) wide flap(s) should have a seam sewn down them, just barely past the batting. Avoid catching the batting in the seam since this can cause the seam to bunch when it's done.

• From both sides, press the seam open.

• The inch flaps should be folded or rolled under from the front and pinned in place.

• Both folded edges should be top stitched down.

Step 8:

This is how you sew rows of blocks together.

Step 9:

Sew the rows together, stitching the flap edges together, and then pressing them open and top stitching the entire row. The maximum length of fabric under the neck of your machine at any time will be 10-12 inches (25.4cm to 30.48cm); this is very manageable for a "regular" machine.

Step 10:

Roll the outside edges over and top stitch to finish the edge.

• The back of the blocks will already be quilted. No need to go through the whole quilt frame and long arm rigmarole!

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